In 1985 while traveling through South America, my wife and I
crossed into Chile at the northernmost city of Arica, and as
usual, one of our first stops was the local national tourism
office. On one wall of the office was a long narrow poster with
a cartoon map of Chile showing the different regions ranging from
the desert of the north, the fertile valleys in the north-center,
Alpine lakes and mountains of the south-center, and thick forests
and glaciers of the south. The caption at the bottom read,
Chile - Geografia Loca, or "Chile - Crazy
Geography." What better way to describe a country that is
2600 miles long, but averages only 100 miles wide?
Befitting Chile's advanced position in Latin America, in the
early 1920s Chile became one of the first Latin American
countries with radio broadcasting. The Chilean congress even
briefly considered setting up a BBC-like public broadcasting
monopoly before deciding to follow the U.S. model of private
broadcasting. Chile's strong economy and democratic traditions
led to the establishment of a solid radio broadcasting industry.
By the 1960s, several Chilean universities offered majors in
broadcasting and journalism and Chile's mass-media education was
considered a model for Latin America.
In 1971, Allende nationalized the country's major industries.
This, combined with the general economic problems caused
advertising revenues to bottom out at commercial radio stations
across the country. Many failed and were sold; others sold part-
ownership to avoid total bankruptcy. However, the only groups
interested in buying stations in these economically troubled
times were the political parties. The Socialists picked up 33,
the Christian Democrats 29, and the Communists 28. Other stations
that remained in private hands likewise took political stances.
Soon only ten of Chile's 156 stations were politically neutral
and objective. Forty-four percent supported Allende and fifty
percent supported the opposition. Supporters of each side
harassed stations on the other by means such as cutting power
lines.
During this period Chilean stations gave DXers a taste of Chile's
political discord. Socialist station Radio Corporacion was an
easy catch on 15150 kHz. Stations in 31 meters included Christian
Democrat Radio President Balmaceda, 9590 kHz; and Socialist Radio
Portales, 9570 kHz. Radio Mineria, still in private hands, was a
voice of the Conservative party on 9750.
All through Allende's rule, starting before he had even taken
office, there had been rumors that the military would take over.
There had even been several small abortive uprisings by tiny
groups in the military. However, on September 11, 1973, the
military moved as a cohesive whole to take over the country
quickly and completely. The coup began in the early morning and
by time Allende realized what was happening and hastily tried to
speak to the country over radio, only the Communist Party's main
station Radio Magallanes (1010 kHz MW) was on the air to
broadcast his final speech. The army had closed down every other
station in Santiago. Magallanes fought back for several hours
before it, too, was silenced. Fighting was intense in some places
and Air Force planes were brought in to strafe and bomb the
presidential palace. In early afternoon, as troops were storming
the building in a final assault, Allende killed himself with his
submachine gun.
Peaceful, democratic Chile had become the site of one of the
bloodiest coups in Latin American history. Thousands of Chileans
were killed in the fighting, and thousands more executed in
massive death-sqaud detention camps in the days that followed.
Many Allende supporters crowded into foreign embassies for safety
and were eventually allowed to leave the country. Former staff
members of Radio Magallanes moved to Moscow where they were given
transmitter time for a special Radio Magallanes broadcast to
Chile.
As it turned out, the generals had serious plans for
international broadcasting and the means to do it with. Just
weeks before the coup, the USSR had shipped several 100 kW SW
transmitters to Chile for a new Chilean external service. Allende
never got to use them, but the dictatorship's La Voz de
Chile was soon broadcasting in seven languages. Ironically,
Moscow's gift transmitters were also used to jam Spanish
broadcasts from Radio Moscow and other East European stations, as
well as Moscow's Radio Magallanes relays. At one point the
generals even jammed Radio Sweden's Spanish broadcasts, finding
the station too liberal for their liking.
Fortunately few radio stations make DXers wait as long for a QSL
card as La Voz de Chile did. For several years the station
answered almost none of their mail until 1979 they started
cleaning out the files all at once. Some DXers received QSLs for
reports that had been sent four or more years previously! But,
the international service was not long to be.
The military government had become enamored with economic
theories espoused by economists at the University of Chicago and
turned control of the Chilean economy over to them. But the
theories didn't work so well in real life, and soon the Chilean
economy hit rock bottom and the economists were kicked out of the
country. One of the casualties of the economic downturn was the
international service, which closed in 1980. The so-called
"Chicago Boys" have not been forgotten, however, as today
Chileans tell University of Chicago economist jokes much the way
people in North America tell ethnic jokes!
Perhaps because Chile had long been a stable and democratic
country, few anticipated the strong dictatorship that followed
Allende. Even most supporters of the coup expected the military
to hold power only a few months and then hold elections,
excluding the leftists. Few expected sixteen years of military
rule. Finally, in December, 1989, as freedom was returning to
Eastern Europe, freedom also returned to Chile in the form of the
first free elections since the coup. Tired of military rule, the
Socialists, Christian Democrats, and most of the liberal and
moderate opposition united under a moderate Christian Democratic
candidate to defeat the conservative candidate sponsored by the
military government. That brings us up to today's free and
prosperous Chile, so let's take a look and Chile and its present-
day shortwave stations region by region.
The Atacama's endless drought, however, has made the region an
archaelogist's paradise. Nothing left in the desert decays; it
just dehydrates. The mountain Indians knew this and came down to
the desert to bury their dead who were naturally mummified. This
was thousands of years before the Egyptians discovered
mummification and the Atacama Indian bodies are much better
preserved. The garbage and food waste the Indians left around the
grave sites makes them even richer in historical importance. Near
Calama is a world reknown archaeolgy museum filled with items
from these ancient grave sites, including 11,000 year-old
dehydrated human feces!
In Calama is a rarely heard shortwaver, Radio Calama on 6100 kHz.
Through the late 1980s, SW was being used on Sundays only; it may
or may not be still active. We arrived in Calama on the Wednesday
morning preceding Easter, 1985. In the late afternoon I stopped
by the station for a visit, but it was about to close down for
the long holiday weekend so that the staff could all take a
vacation to the coast. Everyone was busy trying to finish work by
6:00, and no one wanted to take time to talk to the gringo. I
returned to my hotel and tuned them in on MW. Sure enough, at
6:00 they signed off with a promise to return at 6:00 pm on
Sunday night. They remained off the air the next three days until
Sunday evening when they came back at 6:00 p.m. sharp.
Unfortunately, we were leaving town early the next morning so I
couldn't stop by for another visit. Now, if we could only get
U.S. AM stations to take staff vacations like that . . . think of
how great MW DXing would be with the local stations off for three
days!
Chile's Central Valley is one of the world's major fruit growing
regions and my wife and I were fortunate to be there during
April, the southern hemisphere fall, as grapes and apples were
abundant; countless varieties of both were available for around
seven cents a pound. Somedays we would lunch in the park on rolls
and three or four pounds of grapes. Cherries are said to be
equally available in January. In fact, much of the fresh fruit in
North American supermarkets in late winter and spring comes from
Chile. North American fruit growers have worked with their
Chilean counterparts so that each take their seasonal turns at
supplying the big U.S. consumer market. Unfortunately, the
corporte leaders that decide what Americans eat feel that
Americans should have the same varieties of fruit year round. So,
rather than importing interesting Chilean types of grapes,
apples, plums, etc, American ones have been introduced to Chilean
fruit exporters. Having tasted Chile's own fruits, I can only say
this standardization is a loss to the American palate.
With all those grapes, Chile is one of the world's top five wine
exporting countries, and the largest one outside Europe. And,
Chilean wines are good - at many "blind" competitions
with wine experts, Chilean wines have beaten French, Italian, and
German ones. Chileans claim that some of their wine is so good
that the French import it and then rebottle it as French wine!
If you hear either Radio Nacional or Radio Agricultura, however,
don't send your reception reports to the stations. Instead send
them to Carlos Toledo Verdugo at Casilla 296, San Fernando, VI
Region, Chile. Carlos is the best known DXer in Chile and a
collaborator with the WRTH, and these two stations have appointed
him their official QSL secretary to make sure that QSLing gets
done right. A school teacher, Carlos once spent six months on an
educational exchange program in Ashland, Wisconsin, so English
reports are fine. However, be sure to include two IRCs or one
U.S. dollar for return postage.
Carlos also runs the shortwave listening interest group in
FEDERACHI, the Chilean association of radio amateurs. FEDERACHI
has been very supportive in promoting shortwave listening around
Chile, and the interest group has members throughout the country.
In fact, FEDERACHI could serve as a role model for other radio
amateur organizations around the world as to how to seriously
treat shortwave listening.
About 400 miles south of Santiago is Temuco, in the heart of what
once was the Mapuche, or Araucanian, Indian empire. When the
Spanish attempted to conquer this part of Chile, the Araucanians
fought back hard. At one point they wiped out an entire
settlement, including Chile's Spanish founder, Pedro de Valdivia.
The Spanish learned to give the Araucanians a wide berth, and
there was hole in their settlement between the cities of
Concepcion and Valdivia where the Indians lived. This pattern of
co-existence continued until the 1870s when a French adventurer
gained acceptance among the Araucanians and made himself their
king. There was talk that France might make the region a
protectorate, so Chile raised a massive army and marched in to
subdue the Araucanians once and for all.
Today, Temuco is home to Chile's newest shortwave broadcaster,
Evangelical station Radio Esperanza on 6088 kHz. Radio Esperanza
is sometimes on the air 24 hours, especially weekends, so the
early morning around 0700-0900 is a good time to check for this
station. They have been widely heard despite using only 500
watts, and a new 6000 watt transmitter to have been installed in
early 1993 should make reception even easier. Station director
American Ray Woerner has been a missionary in Chile for over
thirty years, so English reports are fine on this one, too!
Between Temuco and Puerto Montt is Chile's lake country, a
playground of deep blue lakes, clear mountain streams, pine
forests, and snow topped mountains. This region is sometimes
called Chile's Switzerland, and is an outdoor lover's paradise.
Tourists from within Chile and dozens of foreign countries go
here for fishing, skiing, hiking, camping, and just enjoying
Mother Nature. It is truly one of the more beautiful areas on
earth. While Santiago is as far south as Atlanta is north,
Puerto Montt is the southerly equivalent of Cleveland. Although
the nearby ocean does moderate things a bit central Chile has all
four seasons, including winter. We don't often think of snow
storms hitting South American cities, but much of Chile is that
far south. Even Santiago gets snow on occasion.
In the cold wind-swept mountains of southern Chile, just a
stone's throw from Antartica, we come to the end of our radio
journey. With its interesting culture and strong economy, Chile
should remain a DX target for years to come, from one end of its
crazy geography to the other!
1996 Addendum: The only Chilean station which I have seen
reported in the past year is Radio Esperanza.
This website is maintained by Don Moore,
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Chile:
DXing the Land of
Crazy Geographyby Don Moore
A slightly edited version of this article was originally published in
the April, 1994 issue of
Monitoring Times
magazine.PROGRESSIVE AND PROSPEROUS
Since independence, Chile has been one of the most stable and
progressive countries in Latin American. Democratically elected
governments have been the norm in Chile and an influx of European
immigrants in the late 1800s and early 1900s helped produce a
strong middle class and futher the country's economic
development. Today Chile is the only Latin American country
classified as developed, according to United Nations statistics.
UNSTABILITY AND A BLOODY COUP
Chilean politics took a fateful turn in 1970 when Socialist
candidate Salvador Allende became president with a plurality of
barely a third of the vote. Allende's Socialists had needed the
support of Chile's small Communist Party for the crucial margin
of victory and the two parties formed a unified governing front.
With Allende's victory, all aspects of politics and life became
highly polarized between Allende's left on one side, and the
centrist Christian Democrats and the Conservative Party on the
other. The situation was made worse by the CIA, which in its
determination to make Allende fall played such dirty tricks as
bribing union officials to arrange strikes and pumping the
country with counterfeit currency to destablize the economy. INTERNATIONAL BROADCASTING
The new military dictatorship had a shortwave voice on 6150 by
afternoon of the coup day. Within a few days most of the former
Chilean SW stations had returned to the air, but there had been a
lot of changes in programming. For example, at one point former
Socialist Radio Corporacion was noted relaying arch-conservative
Radio Mineria. Many stations, however, were carrying a broadcast
for foreign audiences called "Chile en el Mundo" (Chile
in the World) explaining the reasons for the coup. DRIEST PLACE ON EARTH
The northern third of Chile is the mineral-rich but bone-dry
Atacama desert. It has a number of port cities and one main
inland one, Calama, near the Chuquimata copper mine, which is the
largest man-made hole in the world. How dry is the Atacama? In
Calama we asked a teenage girl if it had ever rained there. She
thought for a few moments and then wittilly replied, "Yes ...
I think about the year 1500." In fact, in many parts of the
Atacama no rain has been recorded since the arrival of the
Spanish over 400 years ago, and geographical evidence indicates
that there has been no rain for an even longer period. But, the
Andes mountains with snow covered peaks and clear mountain lakes
and streams are never more than 75 miles away, and the cities of
the Atacama have water piped in from the mountains. THE CENTRAL VALLEY
The heart of Chile is the Central Valley centering on Santiago,
the capital. It is a land of major industrial cities such as
Concepcion, Santiago, and Valpariso and vast fruit and vegetable
farms. The Central Valley is also rich in minerals, and the
Rancagua copper mine is the world's largest underground mine.
Between Chuquicamata and Rancagua, every DXer's antenna system
must contain some Chilean copper! RADIO IN SANTIAGO TODAY
Most of the stations of the Allende era are gone, although there
is always hope that one of them might pull their shortwave
transmitter out of mothballs someday. It is perhaps appropriate
that the two most logged private Chilean stations today are named
after the two mainstays on the Chilean economy, agriculture and
mines. Radio Agricultura, 9630, has affiliates in other parts of
the country and focuses on news and programming of interest to
Chile's farming community. Radio Mineria, the former conservative
station on 9750, however, only takes its name from Chile's mining
interests. The station has taken a more moderate role since
Allende's fall, and is today one of Chile's better sources of
news. Santiago's other shortwave station is Radio Nacional, which
has continued to use the government's 100 kW shortwave
transmitters of 15140 and 9550 kHz. All three of these stations
are only irregularly active, so keeping current on DX news in
necessary to catch them during a period of activity. LAND OF GLACIERS
The southern third of Chile, below Puerto Montt, is a sparsely
populated archipelago of thickly forested islands, treacherous
glacier-covered mountains, and deep coastal fjords, similar to
the Norwegian coast or the Alaskan panhandle. There are two main
population centers in this region. One is Punta Arenas on the
Straits of Magellan, the southernmost city of 100,000 or more
population in the world. The other, further north, is Coyhaique
and its port of Puerto Aysen. In a region as remote as this, one
would expect to find shortwave, and indeed, Coyhaique has two
shortwave stations, Radio Patagonia Chilena on 6080, and Radio
Santa Maria on 6030. Of course, small stations on 49 meters are
always at the mercy of larger power stations, and while there
have been times when these stations were in the open and easily
received in North America, more often they are blocked by
international broadcasters. But every once in a while as the big
broadcasters shift their schedules, an open window on one of the
frequencies will appear in the early morning around 1000 and the
station will be heard for a few months.
Association of North American Radio Clubs
DXer of the Year for 1995.