Following is my original manuscript of an article that was
published in the 1989
Passport to World Band Radio under the
title Peru: Radio Where Foreigners Never Go. The published
version
was shortened a little, slightly edited, and (of course) had the
typos corrected. Any errors in the text below are mine.
But branching off the main road at Cochabamba is a one-lane dirt
track of cutbacks and blind curves clinging to the edge of a
mountainside. No cars make this trip; only pickup trucks and
rickety old freight trucks, their rotting wooden frames rebolted
and wired together in so many places that they squeak and squeal
their way up the mountain like a chorus of haunted staircases.
At each curve the driver honks his horn to alert oncoming
vehicles. When two trucks meet, a few shouts are exchanged,
gestures made, and finally one of the two backs up, its driver
praying to the saints that one more time he will avoid the sheer
drops. When a wide place is reached, the other may pass.
Finally sixteen hours and 200 kilometers beyond Cajamarca, the
mountain is finally crested and in the valley below, amidst a
green plain of fields and meadows, one catches a first glimpse
of Cutervo.
Since 1980 more than one hundred shortwave stations have started
in Northern Peru. Many don't last for long, as financial
realities or technical breakdowns take their toll. But the
stations keep coming. The epicenter of this mass move to the
airwaves has been the department of Cajamarca. Once a
breadbasket of the Inca Empire, it has become home to over forty
radio stations, some heard around the world. Every town, and
even some villages, have or have had their local radio voices.
La Voz de Cutervo is just one of these many stations.
Cutervo is a typical Peruvian town of white adobe and cement
block row houses roofed with red clay tiles. Life here revolves
around the small shrub-filled central plaza where housewives stop
to chat on their way home from the market each morning. After
lunch, men gather to pass the bottle and gossip until the midday
heat has lessened and its time to return to the fields. After
school and through the evening, teenagers take over the plaza to
half-heartedly do homework and flirt.
The town's Catholic church, its interior decorated with colorful
local woodworking, dominates the plaza. On the other sides of
the plaza are the municipal building, several stores, a pharmacy,
a restaurant, and the three story Hotel San Juan. The hotel's
guests are usually government workers or traveling salesmen.
Cutervo is far from the tourist route. According to the
townspeople, a hardy Hungarian adventurer in the 1960s was the
only foreign visitor before the author and his wife wandered in.
The only place in town to stay, the hotel's green cement-block
walled rooms with unpainted cement floors are complete with a
sink, chair, coathook, and a non-too-wide double bed and go for
the bargain price of 85� (US) double occupancy. (That 85�
doesn't pay for much cleaning, nor hot water!)
Remote as Cutervo is, modern conveniences such as potable water
and electricity have arrived. Ice cold water is piped down the
mountain and into most homes by a municipal water system. The
water's temperture stays ice cold when coming out the tap because
few can afford gas water heaters.
Electricity is more a nightly treat than a convenience. Becuase
bringing kerosene to remote Cutervo is expensive, the municipal
generator is only turned on from 6-10 pm. For the wealthier
families this means a few hours of television from the one
Chiclayo station that is received via a mountaintop repeater. To
the poor majority, electricity is a bare light bulb or two hung
from the kitchen ceiling.
Paved streets and sidewalks grace the center of town, but a few
blocks from the plaza, sidewalks end and the streets become rough
cobblestone. Closer to the outskirts of town, the cobblestones
give way to dirt or mud streets, depending on the season.
Unlike many towns in Peru, Cutervo was neither an ancient Inca
city, nor a Spanish colonial center. For centuries only a few
Indian peasants enjoyed the year round spring-like climate of
warm days and cool mountain air nights. Around the beginning of
this century, settlers from the Cajamarca area discovered the
fertile valley snuggled among the Andes mountains at 8,000 feet.
Realizing its climate was perfect for growing sugarcane, coffee,
vegetables, and potatoes, they established farms, and in 1905
founded Cutervo. With plentiful markets for its produce in
coastal desert cities, the town prospered.
Today the people who live in Cutervo, walk its streets, own its
shops, and listen to its radio stations still depend on
agriculture to keep their small town's economy going.
Everything not consumed locally is sold in Chiclayo. Everyday,
freight trucks lumber the mountain, their open topped wooden
frame backs loaded high with produce.
Besides transporting vegetables, the freight trucks serve another
vital function. Few people own cars or trucks, and with only one
bus a week to Chiclayo and back, hitching a ride on the back of a
freight truck is the easiest way out of town. The average person
leaves Cutervo sitting atop several tons of potatoes. At least
hitching back in the empty trucks isn't quite as bumpy!
Like any small farm town, Cutervo is not exciting by anyone's
standards. The best the town has to offer for entertainment is a
movie theater that shows karate flicks and cheap westerns when
they are available - which isn't very often. In season, there
are bullfights in a drab cement bullring on the edge of town. At
other times sports fans content themselves with walking to the
local high school to watch teenage boys play soccer. Overall,
the most popular past time in Cutervo is chatting with family or
friends while listening to one of the local radio stations.
To an outsider, Cuterve�os might seem to be real animal lovers.
Not only are there many dogs and cats in the streets, but a peek
in the front door of many houses reveals a half dozen or more
guinea pigs playing on living room floors. Cuterve�os, however,
will be quick to point out that those aren't pets - they're
supper! For centuries the guinea pig, or 'cuy' has been a
delicacy to Andean peoples. Skinned and fried it tastes much
like rabbit, and is higher in protein than beef or pork. And,
as the people of Cutervo know, it's a lot easier to raise a herd
of cuy in the living room than a cow or pig!
Located in a long row of adobe brick buildings half a block from
the plaza, La Voz de Cutervo looks like the homemade radio
station that it is. Under a handpainted multicolored wooden
sign are a pair of decaying seagreen doors leading into the
office.
A 10x15 foot room, the office has white adobe walls, and a high
ceiling of rough plaster and huge wooden beams thick with cobwebs
in the corners. Going inside, to the left is the secretary's
'desk' - a green pegboard counter, its top covered with red
cloth. Two wooden chairs are the only other furniture. The wall
behind the counter is decorated with beer company calenders and
Latin American pop music posters. Sheets of yellow legal paper
are taped around the other walls at eye level. Typed onto these
are the titles of most of La Voz de Cutervo's record collection,
divided into catergories by song type: huaynos, pasillos, vals,
ranchera, moderna, and infantil. Listeners use these to pick out
songs for record dedications. Above the song lists is a generic
black & white clock (the kind found in any American schoolroom);
a few cheap-looking landscape paintings; and, the station's
pride, an excellant 15x18 inch photograph of Cutervo, taken by a
local photographer.
Along the back wall, two plain brown doors marked "Locucion" and
"Audio Master" lead into the 8x7-foot studios. In the middle of
the main studio, 'locucion', is a table with a homemade console,
two turntables, a cassette deck, and several microphones.
Records, mainly 45s but some LPs, line shelves on the back wall.
Separated from 'locucion' by a fiberboard wall with a large plate
glass window is 'audio master' - a special studio with just a
microphone for reading the news and doing interviews. Pop music
posters decorate both studios.
Station manager Julio Cesar Sanchez is young and enthusiastic
about his work. Soon after its founding in 1980, he began
working for today's crosstown competition, Radio Ilucan. Two
years later, feeling he had the experience needed to make the big
move, he founded La Voz de Cutervo. Dedicated to making his the
best station in town and undaunted by the numerous station
failures in the region, Julio believes that with hard work, radio
broadcasting in these small towns can be profitable.
Running the studio feedline through town, Julio put his antennas
and transmitters on a hilltop outside Cutervo for better
coverage. So that his station could broadcast all day, not just
when the municipal power was on, he installed a generator. Car
batteries charged at the transmitter site power the studio during
the day.
With an ear for quality, Julio runs his one kilowatt AM & SW
transmitters at about 700 watts for better performance and to
avoid overmodulation. He is building a fifty watt FM
transmitter to give Cutervo true high-fidelity. Julio says to
be the best he needs FM for listeners in town, AM for the
surrounding villages, and SW to reach the more distant towns.
His would be the first FM station in the department outside the
city of Cajamarca.
Julio's most experienced employee, and the only one to have
worked outside Cutervo, is Miguel Angel Quispitongo Suxe.
Miguel is one of many itinerant radio announcers of northern
Peru. Like peddlers of old, these announcers journey from town
to town looking for a station in need of their experience and
well enough off to hire them. Leaving Oyotun, his hometown in
Lambayeque department, Miguel first wandered out to the Amazon
region and found work at Radio Moyobamba. Growing economically
like never before, the Peruvian Amazon is a center for both oil
exploration and cocaine production. The region's boundless
opportunity convinced him and another Radio Moyobamba announcer
to quit their jobs and found Estacion C. Bored of Moyobamba,
the partners soon sold their station to Porfirio Centurion,
another former Radio Moyobamba announcer. After drifting a bit,
Miguel finally ended up in Cutervo. As much as he enjoys his
work and the similarities of Cutervo's mountain valley climate
to his hometown, Miguel feels that the opportunities to make
real money in radio are in the Amazon, where he plans to
eventually return.
The biggest challenge for La Voz de Cutervo, or any small town
radio station in Northern Peru, is getting enough income to
survive. Local stores are so small they can't afford
advertising much and big national and international companies
such as T�a department stores and Coca-Cola rarely spend their
advertising dollars outside major cities. Therefore, most of
the station's income must be generated through the sale of what
are called 'comunicados' or 'servicios sociales'. These are
everyman's party line in rural Latin America: where telephones
are nonexistant, radio stations have taken their place!
Comunicados are simply personal announcements that listeners pay
the station to air. In Cutervo the going rate is about 20� (US)
for three airings. The main reason that shortwave is used so
extensively in this region is to allow comunicados to reach
distant towns. A long as there is no other reliable method of
communication, shortwave will thrive in Northern Peru.
All towns are far apart, if not in distance, at least in time.
Mail service may take weeks. The only way to keep in touch with
family members in places near or distant is via radio. Maybe
Juanita married a man from Chota. Mama hasn't seen her since the
wedding and decides to go visit the newlyweds for a few days.
Having the good sense to realize that Juanita will want a little
notice, Mama sends one of Juanita's younger siblings over to La
Voz de Cutervo with a comunicado to warn Juanita and her husband
of the upcoming visit. "Juanita Arana de Valencia in Chota, your
mother will be coming to visit you next week on Tuesday or
Wednesday. She hopes you and your husband are well and looks
forward to seeing you." It doesn't matter if Juanita doesn't hear
the announcement. One of her neighbors or friends certainly will
and they will pass along the news. In fact within a few hours
everyone in Chota will know that Juanita's mother is coming for a
visit!
Alternately, maybe Don Eduardo wants to send a message to the
workers on his coffee plantation, but doesn't have the time to
make the four-hour round trip today. He has told them to always
listen to La Voz de Cutervo while eating lunch, so he simply
drives over to the station to buy a comunicado.
Indeed, the lunch hour is the best time to hear comunicados.
People are most likely to listen to the radio during mealtimes,
so that's when the stations usually air them, in long strings,
maybe broken up by an occasional song. The next most popular
times are dinner time, the early evening, and breakfast time.
Even people not expecting a message listen. After lunch, mother
exchanges gossip with the neighbor who was tuned to a different
station. The men at work don't wait any to discuss the days
'news' either.
The record dedication is also an important source of income - La
Voz de Cutervo didn't type up those song lists just to be nice!
For 20 cents (US) the station will play the record of one's
choice and read an accompanying announcement. Its a great way to
wish happy birthday to relatives and friends, or for a young man
to publicly express his affections for a certain young lady.
"Jorge sends this romantic message by Julio Iglesias to his one
and only love, Luisa."
In a country where the average family lives on $30-$40 (US) a
month, it is difficult to depend on comunicados and record
dedications. Making it tougher in Cutervo are two competitors,
Radio Ilucan and Radio Cutervo. With three stations vying for
listeners in a town of 6,000, each station tries to play the
best music and get the most interesting comunicados to keep
people tuned in.
Of course keeping listeners means staying on the air, and
equipment problems can be disastrous. Owners hope breakdowns
can be repaired or at least jury-rigged with local know-how. If
costly imported spare parts are essential, a long overland trip
to Lima must be made, putting the station off the air for weeks.
Sometimes expensive parts put a station off the air for months,
even years, until the owner can scrape up enough cash for
repairs.
La Voz de Cutervo has been fortunate that none of these potential
disasters have snuffed out the station's dreams. In 1986, they
changed their shortwave frequency from 4965 to 5661 khz, leaving
them free of interferance. Although their weak signals are
rarely heard in North America, the best time to try for them is
from 0000-0400 UTC.
1998 Addendum: Unfortunately, La Voz de Cutervo is
no longer on shortwave and hasn't been for several years. I
don't know if the station still exists on medium wave (AM) or
FM. The commonly heard shortwave stations from Cutervo for
the past few years have been Radio Sudamerica and Radio Ilucan.
In listening to these, I have heard advertisements giving
phone numbers for the local stores and restaurants. Obviously,
modern communications have arrived to Cutervo in the form of
the telephone and, presumably, it is now possible to call
anywhere in the world from Cutervo. That is good news for the
town and its people, but I'm glad I visited the town while it
was still very isolated from the outside world.
This website is maintained by Don Moore,
Peru Menu
Main Menu
What's New
Best of this Site
Radio History
Clandestine Radio
LA VOZ DE CUTERVO:
RADIO IN REMOTE AND RUGGED
NORTHERN PERUby Don Moore
From the city of Cajamarca a rough dirt road winds up the
Peruvian mountainside and then over a barren 4,000 meter high
plateau where travelers may be greeted by ice or snowstorms any
day of the year. One hundred and twenty kilometers, or about
eleven hours later, the road winds down the other side of the
plateau and passes through the town of Chota before continuing
up the Chotano River valley to the little crossroads town of
Cochabamba fifty kilometers beyond. From here it another whole
day's journey to the paved coastal highway and the city of
Chiclayo.
Association of North American Radio Clubs
DXer of the Year for 1995.